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I went to Africa in 1959
intending to write about the Kariba Dam. The building of
that enormous hydroelectric plant was a great industrial
achievement, not only because it is one of the half-dozen
biggest things of its kind in the world, but also because
the gorge on the River Zambesi, where it was built, was
fifty miles from the nearest road, and two hundred miles
from the nearest city, and seven hundred miles from the
nearest seaport. Most of the difficulties of building it
were due to its position in the heart of the African wilderness.
But when I had studied it and thought about
it, I found I was even more interested in the wilderness
than in the dam. I had learned quite a lot about the effects
of the environment on the building of the dam, but not
so much about the effects of the dam on its environment.
So in 1960 I went there again; but instead of going back
to the dam, I went into the valley of the Zambesi about
a hundred miles farther up the river, where the flood which
the dam had caused was still rising. It was down in the
wild, hot forests of the valley, in the bungalows of government
officers and the villages of the local tribe, that I heard
most of this curious, pathetic story; and it still seemed
to me more interesting in its way than all the scientific
marvels of Kariba... |